Sunday 26 August 2012

Inside the New Home.... Scribbling by Candlelight

My Living Room by Night... laptop open, words being
 scribbled - editing of The Musician continues...
 
My Bedroom...

My 'Storeroom' and Wardrobe - gone are the days
of fungus and damp. WOOHOO
View from my Front Door (Right)

View from my Front Door (Centre)

Close up of the School from Front Door

House on the Way to School

This One Tried to Get in Last Night





Thursday 23 August 2012

Creepies and Crawlies - the Bug Trials...


So I'm starting to get somewhere in my new home. At first I was painfully ill-equiped to deal with the new set of challenges I faced, most significantly, the creepies and the crawlies. Back in the sick room it was a case of shut the windows (cellotape some of them shut), get the fans blowing and, should the odd nasty come a creeping or a crawling, deal with it ruthlessly. But this wooden home is a different kettle of bugs. It's all about twilight and the darkness that follows. In he beginning I had no curtains, so the windows filled with hundreds of things desperate to get to my light. I tried occupying one room and leaving the door to the bedroom closed, but it didn't work. I went to bed in a zoo.

First I found little wormie-caterpillar things marauding on the look-out for the carcasses of other insects – the wiggly hyena of the bug world. God knows where they dragged these unfortunate creatures. As my mattress was on the floor, and with no idea what was going on under the floorboards or above the rafters, I felt compelled to act to avoid a potential infestation or the dreaded thought of nocturnal nasal invasions. Karma temporarily put to one side, I was brutal.

Then the moths started fluttering. Moths are harmless. I know this. But when there's so many of them and they're so big and when they occasionally take a wrong turn and fly into your lips, they can be just as annoying as the more aggressive bugs. But for some reason, I can't kill a moth, so I suffered them. The worst thing about moths? In the dark they could be something else. Incidentally, I've seen a moth the size of my head. And a beetle the size of my fist. In all kinds of colours – radiant green to deep red and shiny sky blue.

But the biggest baddie of all... the mosquito. On Saturday night I managed 2-3 hours sleep because of these critters. Obviously their bites are itchy and can give you a horrible disease, but it's the noise that really does you in. It carries a melody of threat. Bzzzzzzzzz – I'm gonna bite you, you gonna itch and then get malaria... bzzzzzz. It's almost impossible to sleep when the buzzing's going on, so I had to deal with each and every incidence of it, ideally, without turning the light on, lest more bugs become entranced by the flickers and join me in my humble room.

Things have improved. I bought a plug-in bug repellent, and it works a treat. I now relax at night. In the living room before bed I still hang 3 sets of curtains and switch to candle light when the thump thumpety flap flaps at the window get a bit too much. But I love it here! Trials to be endured. I'm also enjoying a sustained period of chronic pain, which is not something I've ever had to deal with before. Sciatica. Like a toothache that starts in the lower back, courses through the hip joint and reaches down your leg. I'm lying down a lot. And taking painkillers when I have to. Trials to be endured.

On the upside, I've got a new clothes washing partner...




Saturday 18 August 2012

Out of the Sick Room and Into the Jungle

I did it! I left the sick room behind and fled to the real world. Goodbye concrete, hello wood. Goodbye hot shower, hello bucket bath. Goodbye fans, hello heat. Goodbye sealed up walls and windows, hello insects creeping in.Goodbye free living, hello rent and bills. Goodbye hearing students all day, hello the clicks and chirrups of the cicadas. Goodbye damp, hello fresh air. Goodbye school campus, hello BHUTAN!

Some people thought I was a bit nuts doing this so close to the end (still 4 months tho!), but I'm absolutely certain it's worth it. Nothing beats walking back in the evening along the jungly road and sitting out on the balcony just relaxing. Inside I've got a small kitchen and three rooms. The sun comes up in the window of my bedroom. One room is a walk-in wardrobe - I've hung rope across it and I hang everything as a guarantee against damp. The sun goes straight through the window onto these clothes throughout the day, so should be fine there. Photos of the inside once I've fixed it up, but here's a taster. Anyone considering visiting should definitely make the move now!

From a distance - mine is the one on the far right with the green roof. My rooms are on the near side, top floor. Downstairs is empty, but will be a shop soon (perfect). And my friend ST lives with his wife and three baby daughters on the bottom left.



Add caption
View from the road...



View of the school from my drive...


View of the valley




View from my bedroom window...





Thursday 16 August 2012

The Mission for Instruments

The instruments are here! I celebrated by buying a daft leather cowboy hat, putting on my shades and being a rock star for a day. So, how did this happen? (The instruments – not the hat; that could happen to anyone.)

Looking a bit daft with Tshering Tashi Mdm Thinley
On Saturday nearly half the staff piled into the school bus and made the journey down into the sweltering furnace of commerce they call Phuentsholing. I've been down to the  border town 4 or 5 times now but I'm still struck afresh by the geological transition between Bhutan and India. The dramatic ups and downs of the deep valleys and steep forested mountainsides of the Himalayan foothills just stop all of a sudden and give way to an endless plain. On a clear day, like it was on Saturday, you really grasp how endless this flatness is. It just goes on and on and on and...

the endless plain through prayer flags
The bus wound down through the snakey twists and turns. The mountains out to the East form a sentry line, all of them choosing to lie down and go flat with near-military precision at the border. The raging rivers rush out of the Mountains and turn to placid ribbons of still silver, eagles circle the skies, scrutinising a landscape full to bursting with every shade of green imaginable. Phuentsholing sits in a little pocket in this otherwise uniform stretch of vanguard Himalayas. From within town itself, it doesn't strike you as so fine a setting, but from above, as you rattle towards it, Phuentsholing looks exactly how you'd expect a gateway to a hidden kingdom to look.

Bhutan on the left, India on the right...
The town itself is split by a simple fence but divided by much more. On the Phuentsholing side, you have the laid-back socialist welfare state of Bhutan; on the Jaigon side, the hectic, racy, caste system state of India, with dirty deformed and overtly forgotten cripples in the roads, cows parading holy in the streets and money money money moving everywhere. The fence is a token one, as the border is effectively open to anyone who looks like they belong here. Indians and Bhutanese pass through freely, the real immigration checkpoints being up on the road a few kilometers north. Phuentsholing town is the mixing pot, Bhutan's anteroom where cultures mingle, an airlock, a necessary decompression chamber.

Mr Gembo Passing
Through The Gate
The official business of the trip was the buying of musical instruments. With a grant from Bhutan Canada Foundation and money raised at the charity concert by the kids and staff of Chepstow School, my aim was to buy everything the school would need to run a music club, have bands and do performances. The school already had some traditional instruments, and more were on the way, so we needed to secure the classic combo of keyboard, bass, drums, guitars. Unfortunately, drums were just way too expensive. After 2 ½ hours of me trying everything they had in the shop, we came out with:


  • flashy keyboard with pitch bender (fun fun fun), lessons, and all sorts of beats and sounds
  • bass guitar
  • electric guitar
  • semi-acoustic guitar
  • 2 mics (one a performance mic, the other a bog-standard pa mic)
  • cube amplifier, 25W, but battery operable for outdoor stuff
  • capo, tuner, strings (millions of E-strings for when they all get broken by enthusiasm), leads etc

Mr Subodh in his Shop
I did well, but I'm sure the principal would have pushed our money further. His powers of negotiation are a thing to behold. And his rule for Jaigon – begin with half of what they say and work from there. It worked for my hat – 360 Ru down to 100 Ru, but only because my friend Tshering had just bought the same hat and had paid that price. I was less successful with my negotiations for the instruments;

'I can't take anymore off – I've reduced everything as far as I can.' Said Mr Subodh.
'But this is Jaigon, a place of miracles, where the unexpected happens.' I replied, to no avail.

But aside from the drums, we got what we came for and we were in budget, so all was good.

Mr Subodh
Here he is - Subodh Kumar of Modern House Music, the kindly man who indulged me for 2 ½ hours and was very gracious when I tuned a guitar string so much it snapped (this has happened to me three times in Bhutan and never before). Thanks for your help Mr. Subodh.


We finally got back to school at 23:30 on Sunday after a 2 hour delay at the checkpoint regarding furniture and tax (over-zealous checkpointer). Now I have to decide how to fairly and effectively share 4 instruments among 550 students, balancing the pressure of the eventual performances with the desire to get them into as many hands as possible. Ayeesh. Luckily I'm teaching the music/noise chapter in class 10, so it's all immediately useful, and it's great to have an excuse to take a guitar back in the classroom!

I refuse to go anywheere...

Thursday 9 August 2012

Fisherman's Blues in the Pre-Dawn Glow of Thimphu Town

Had a great time at the weekend in Thimphu celebrating a birthday and the departure of another friend, playing all kinds of songs on the old guitar til the pre-dawn glow over the mountains sent us all reeling into our respective beds with prickly faces. Graceland, Call Me Al, I Need a Dollar, Time of My Life, Chocolate Jesus, Norwegian Wood, Tangled up in Blue... so many great songs to sing. So here's a track that came whistling through late on and I thought I'd share because it means a lot to me and it's rich with memories.  

Fisherman's Blues!

What a song, I love it. But I kinda felt compelled to add to it so I did ('when I'm far away -mmm mmm - I still hear you, you're my home'). The venerable Mr Scott seems to be singing about being off on his own adventures, revelling in beat freedom and the romance of the road, but then comes this line - 'light in my head, you in my arms', followed by the big old whoop-out of joy - which I always understood to be an expression of a longing to share the dream, balance the thrill of adventure with the intimacy of companionship. But I figured it could just as well be a longing for someone who simply isn't there, geographically, and you carry that person into the moment and share it at a distance. So I just threw those lines in and Hey Presto! I've soiled a great song. Forgive me.

Interesting time in Thimphu with all the Thimphu-based Chilups working for NGOs and GOs. It seems to me that anybody who is going to be involved in policy should do something like teaching first because Thimphu, like so many other capital cities, is simply not 'Bhutan'. If you visited Dublin, you'd have no idea what the real Ireland was like. If you visited London, you'd have no inkling of the North or the West, or even the South or the East. I'm not sure if as many applicants would come forward if the contract stipulated a year in the back of beyond getting used to how things work, before you get on with your raison d'etre, but it would certainly make a difference. At the very least, send them through the country for a month and have them stay in villages. 

Don't get me wrong - these were all very nice people. The 'ex-pats' you find in Bhutan are generally cut from a different cloth from those that you might find in, say, Bangkok; they tend to have found themselves  here for reasons that are far more laudable than the pursuit of an easy life of remnant colonial pleasures. But still - the pulse of the country does not have the same rhythm as that of the capital, and it seems to me that the last thing this country needs is capital-centric policy-making or too heavy an influence of western ideologies if they aren't sufficiently informed by and adapted to this country's very specific needs. Sot here we go. Odd weekend in this respect. Anyway, here's the tune...



I wish I was a Fisherman, tumblin on the seas
Far away from dry land and its bitter memories
Casting off my sweet lines with abandonment and love
no ceiling staring down on me, save the starry sky above

with light in my head, you in my arms

(when I'm far away, I still hear you - you're my home)

I wish was a brake man on a hurtling fevered train
rushing headlong into the heartlands like a cannon in the rain
with the beating of the sleepers and the burning of the coals
counting the towns passing by on a night that's full of soul

with light in my head, you in my arms


(when I'm far away, I still hear you - you're my home)

I know that I'll be loosened from bonds that hold me fast
and the chains that are all hung around me will fall away at last
when that fine and fateful day comes I will take thee in my hands
and I will ride on that train - I'll be that fisherman

with light in my head, you in my arms...

Monday 6 August 2012

Teacher on Duty.. a Day in the Life...


Teacher on Duty

On Saturday it was my turn to be the ToD (Teacher on Duty). The ToD basically takes charge of the school for the day... here's what happens...

The day begins at 5 30am. After a quick check of the hostel for layabouts, I go down to the classrooms. The kids are already there doing their morning study. Some are sleepy, but most of them are doing something useful with their time, even if it's only reading (in through the eyes out through the back of the head most of the time). I go to each classroom and sign the morning study register, which will have been taken by the class captain. I note down any absentees, sick or otherwise and solve the occasional physics problem. Having recently put out the call for contributions to the school magazine, I also get to read through a few poems and essays as I wander, adjusting grammar and making suggestions for improvements.

When study time ends the kids disperse and the boys go for breakfast before the girls. This is my opportunity to check that all is well in the school, so I walk through the empty classrooms, do a tour of the rubbish dumps (holes in the ground – it's only a matter of time before they get filled and then what? Dig another hole?). Touring the toilets is fun. The school aims for the lofty ideal of the 'welcoming toilet' – a place you'd like to go and do your business, but it's not easy to manage with the water difficulties we so often face. They're a bit smelly today, but that's to be expected. Finding a poo unflushed is a bit disappointing so I make a note of it for the assembly.

In the last 15 minutes before we gather, the SUPW takes place – Social Uniformly (?) Productive Work. I have to monitor this too. The students each have an allotted area of the school that they must maintain and keep clean. If they're lucky its a garden. If they're not it, it's some bins or a drain or something. It's a good thing because it works; the school remains clean and tidy and the kids have the responsibility to keep it that way. As with any cohort, some kids do it without a second thought and throw themselves wholeheartedly into the sweep or weeding, other's find corners to skulk in. My job is really to patrol the skulky corners and draw kids back to the light. On this day I encounter 3 children standing around a little clump of grass that needs plucking from the concrete, arguing about who should be doing the plucking. We spend 5 minutes debating roles and responsibilities before somebody beds down and plucks it in 2 seconds. I make another note for the assembly.
Then, it's assembly time. The children all take up their places according to their houses in lines of two. The assembly begins with morning prayer, but these prayers are nothing like the mumbling monodrones of Christian worship – they're tuneful and joyful and when the whole school sings them it's a remarkable experience, commented on by pretty much every teacher who comes here. I tried to learn them, but the vocal melodies in this part of the world are something altogether more intricate than anything we're used to, with sudden dips and dives in tone and gymnastic trills that take practice. After the prayer, the national anthem is sung. I have the lyrics for this written down, but once again, following the melody is something altogether more demanding. The breath-control alone is a challenge. Next comes the student speakers. On the day in question, the topics were 'The Crown and Glory of Life is Character', and 'Economic Development Causes Environmental Damage'. The students choose their own titles and prepare their own speeches, and every student will do one during a year, practising their public speaking skills. Once again, I made notes.

Then comes my turn. The Teacher on Duty has to take the assembly, which involves speaking for up to 20 mins, depending on what needs to be said. My first ones weren't that great because I was a bit self-conscious and uncertain as to how many people were understanding my silly accent, but I've grown in confidence. It's good that the children have to do this from an early age. Public speaking is valued highly here and it's something I think should taken on board back in the UK.

First I comment on the speeches, complimenting the students on what they did well and offering some constructive criticism. Then I extend their content and discuss the link between thinking globally and acting locally and how this ties in with the development of good character – both being dependent on small choices one makes day-to-day (a perfect opportunity to bring in the debacle of the lowly tuft of grass). Then I talk about toilets, avoiding the word poo, which is difficult for me. Then I make announcements that teachers have given me, scold the boys at the back for not paying attention to the student speakers, and finally I pass on to the Principal, who tends to speak at all assemblies, even if just for a short time. He reiterates my scolding and makes a change – from now on the big boys will be at the front and the small ones at the back until the big ones learn to respect the speakers. Brilliant move.

Assembly ends and I head to the staffroom to organise cover work. If a member of staff is absent and they teach Year 10 (the exam class) it's easy, because everybody wants extra classes, but if it isn't year 10, it's a far more difficult proposition. Luckily on this occasion (it being Saturday) there were only two lessons to cover and they were both year 10, so job done easily. The rest of the day proceeds well. If it wasn't a Saturday, I'd be supervising the lunch and dinners as well as the evening study which runs from 6 to 7pm, but I don't have to do this. So I have a nap. And then play basketball in the searing heat for about 3 hours (Much to my disappointment I've earned a place in the category of those who foul by accident through underdevelopment of technique, a category that doesn't exactly command respect). Then I nap again.

On the Sunday, the school sponsored a day of prayers at a local Lakhang, the whole staff attending to prepare breakfast, dinner and lunch for the villagers and the monks that would be intoning the prayers, as well as cleaning the grounds, making waste bins, and painting signs. It would meant another 5am start, but I managed to renegotiate the terms of my attendance and took the 8:30 transport. Woo Hoo.